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It's an Awesome List that I (djsime1) created shortly after receiving Lurat, my lovely dolphin sidekick.
Perferably, open a Pull Request with your changes, or use one of the methods in the next question to contact me.
Open a new discussion on this repo, Message me on Discord (@DJ#9822), Telegram (djsime1), or email me (
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Make sure there's a working MicroSD Card in the device first by following the steps above. Once you download the dump, you can use qFlipper or the Flipper mobile app to transfer them. If you're transfering a large file or many at once, you can also eject the SD Card from Flipper and insert it in your computer for faster transfers.
The links listed in this repo can't be installed as easily as drag-and-drop.
Most of them have to be manually merged into the firmware and fully recompiled. (Documentation coming soon)
As for ELF/FAP's, they're in a very early stage of development and require a special version of the firmware to be installed. I DO NOT recommend using them until they are officially merged into the main firmware.
If you're really insistent, install the firmware from this comment, place the .elf or .fap file in the apps directory on the SD Card (create it if necessary), and use the ELF loader application to run them.
(WIP)
First, ask yourself if you really need to. Sure, it might be fun to break out of Sub-GHz transmission restrictions, but how often are you actually going to do that? Is it really worth breaking the law?
After you've ignored the previous sentences, make sure there's a working MicroSD Card in your Flipper and head over to the repository of your perferred firmware. Look for releases and find the .dfu file or updater package (typically a .tar or .zip file, always contains a file named update.fuf).
.dfu, it can be installed using the "Install from file" option in qFlipper. Select the file and begin the installation.update folder on the SD Card (create if needed). Once transferred, go to the idle screen of the Flipper, press down to access the file browser, then left to view all folders. From there, open the update folder (typically at the bottom of the list) and find the folder you just transferred. Lastly, select the file named update and choose "Run in app" to install the firmware.If there was no pre-compiled update file/package, you'll have to build the firmware yourself. See the next question for details. For more information, read the official documentation.
(WIP)
Probably not. While the firwmare and schematics are mostly public, actually sourcing the components is extremely difficult. Multiple core pieces, such as the screen, were specficially produced to be used in Flipper manufacturing.
This is no longer possible, they were Kickstarter-backer exclusives.
These are all hardware mods, inaccessible to the average user. Look up/ask around on how to do them.
Not for the Flipper Zero. While there are concepts for a Flipper One, there is not any timeline for release.
It's a yet to be implimented mode that would hide all of the potentially malicious apps/features of Flipper.
If nothing works or the device is completely bricked, first make sure it's charged by plugging it in for 15-30 minutes. As a final resort, if you can't get it to turn on after charging, unplug the USB cable and hold OK plus BACK for 30 seconds. There will be no indication, but the device is now in recovery mode. Plug it in to a PC and use qFlipper to recover the firmware. Read the official docs for Control, Reboot, and Firmware recovery.
(WIP)
Short answer: You don't. That's illegal, and NOT what Flipper was designed for.
Due to legal regulations, Flipper is not allowed to transmit on certain frequencies depending on your order location. For more information, referr to the official documentation If you have no regard for laws, you can use custom firmwares such as Unleashed to bypass this restriction at your own risk.
If it's a commonly used frequency, bring the device really close to the Flipper and use the Frequency analyzer. If that didn't work, check for the device's FCC ID. It's legally required to be somewhere on the device if it's sold in the US. Then, look up that ID on FCC ID.io.
(TODO)
Unless the item of interest is extremely old, it probably uses rolling codes. Read more below.
Think of it like this: Imagine your garage door was programmed to open whenever it received the code "1234" from a transponder. This would be a static code, where a replay attack (Read RAW) would be able to open the garage. Since replay attacks are so easy, most devices will shuffle the code after each use. So the first time you open your garage, the transponder sends "1234" and the second time it sends "5678." Rolling codes aren't that simple, but you get the gist.
You'll have to re-sync your old device manually, since it's now lagging behind on the rolling code.
A brute force code tries every possible code for a specific bit length, however this is inefficient. Example: 0001, 0002, 0003, 0004 ... 9998, 9999. Debruin sequences are more efficient by merging multiple codes together. Example: 365, 136, and 650 can all be found in 13650 by looking at groups of 3 digits individually.
| Card name/type | Read | Write | Save | Emulate | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mifare Classic | X | X | X | Emulation is hit/miss | |
| Mifare DESFire | X | ||||
| Mifare Ultralight | X | X | X | Non-password protected | |
| EMV Cards | X | Can read bank cards | |||
| NTAG-21X | X | X | X | ||
| iClass/PicoPass | X | X | |||
| EM4100/EM4102 | X | X | X | ||
| H10301 | X | X | X | ||
| Indala | X | X | X | ||
| T5577 | X | X | X | X | |
| Paxton Net2 | Hitag2: no support |
To determine the protocol (NFC, RFID, or iClass/PicoPass) you'll need to attempt reading in each corresponding app. If nothing works, check the tag/card for any markings or indications. As a last resort, take a picture of the card/fob and the reader and ask in the Flipper Discord server.
Run the "Read card" action in the NFC app. If you don't see "NFC-A", your card is unfortunately unsupported. Note that you've only read the card UID and type, not the actual data. For that you need to select the "Run compatible app" option.
Currently unsupported, but is being worked on.
This happens when the tag is password protected. There's no quick fix for this, but solutions are in the works.
Mifare classics are split up into sectors, these sectors are protected by two keys. To read a Mifare Classic, Flipper uses a dictionary attack, which takes a big list currently comprised of about 2000 common keys, and checks them individually against each sector on the card. If you know the keys, they can be manually added to the User Dictionary under the "Extra Actions" menu.
The data on Mifare Classic cards is split up into sectors, and each section is protected by two keys. The read has failed, meaning the card didn't use any common keys. If you have access to the card reader, mfkey32v2 can be used to pull keys from it.
The data on Mifare Classic cards is split up into sectors, and each sector is protected by two keys. The read wasn't successful, but it didn't fail either. Some of the card's data was read and saved, but not all. Even if not all sectors were read, there's a slim chance a partial save will work with emulation.
There are a number of reasons, some of which can be fixed while others can't. The first thing you should check is that all sectors were read from the card. If not, look at the questions above. On the hardware side: Mifare Classic emulation is handled by the CPU, except the clock cycle can't conform to the exact (and strict) timings that these tags communicate with. On the software side: Some rarely used card commands (counters, restore, and transfer) haven't been implimented, thus they will always fail during emulation.
DESFire is a very complicated and much more secure chipset. There are no known attacks against it yet.
These are shadow files, and they're created whenever an emulated tag is written to. They store a copy of the original file with whatever was written. This way, the original file remains untouched.
You'll need to use a NFC-enabled smartphone with an app that can write tags. One of the easiest to use apps is called NFC Tools, available for both Android and iOS. Due to Mifare Classic emulation quirks, you can only edit the data of saved NTAG and Mifare Ultralight tags. Create an empty NTAG216 with the "Add Manually" action in the NFC app if you don't have one already. Save that tag, then open it from the list. Once you start emulating the tag, you can use the NFC Tools smartphone app to write information on to the emulated tag. This is saved to a .shd file with the same name as the emulated tag. If you need a quick way to generate a tag containing a URL, you can use Flipper Maker's NFC Creator tool online.
EMV Credit/Debit cards are mostly encrypted. The information Flipper reads is the unencrypted portion of the card. This alone is not enough to emulate and complete a transaction. It is impossible to read the encrypted parts.
While it isn't possible to add new items under the universal menu, there exist plenty of repositories containing many dumps of IR remotes. The most popular is Flipper-IRDB. (Note: When downloading, it's highly recommended to unmount the SD Card from your Flipper and directly plug it in to your computer.)
The stock universal tv remote database mostly contains power codes, and very few of everything else. This file (Located at infrared/assets/tv.ir on the SD Card) be manually replaced with one containing extra codes for all buttons. To do so, download this file and use qFlipper to transfer it into the path from the previous sentence.
All three are different formats of infrared databases. They are not natively compatible with Flipper, but repositories exist that hold converted and compatible versions, such as Flipper-IRDB.